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Title: Climbing Anchors, 2nd (How To Climb Series)
ISBN: 0762723262
Author:
John Long
Bob Gaines
Publicate Date: 2006-09-01
Publish: 2006-09-01
List Price: $15.95
Average Customer Rating: 4.5
Format: Paperback
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Amazon Lowest New Price: $6.40
Amazon Lowest Used Price: $6.40
Amazon Merchant Price: $10.85
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| Customer Review: |
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1: great reference!
A great reference book for those learning to climb outside the gym and to set up anchors.
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2: Excellent book, with a lot of up to date information.
I like this book a lot. I've been climbing for over 20 years, but took a break in the last 5 or so and am just getting back into it. A lot can change in 5 years, and this book really was a big help in getting familiar with the latest in anchor system building. The real test data for various systems is a big plus that exposes problems with many systems I once viewed as 'good enough' (using John Long's terminology). If you were taught only one or two methods of setting up anchor systems, get this book. You'll be surprised how much variety can be in the various systems, and you'll see how one system can have advantages over others in different situations. To end on a funny note, I got a real kick out of the front and back cover pictures. It would seem that given that both pictures are of climbers on apparently chossy unstable towers, the strength of their anchor systems is the least of their worries! I'm not sure if this was intentional, but it did make me giggle to see such photos on an anchor system book. :)
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3: too complicated to be useful ?
I was a little disappointed about John Long new anchor book. I felt the book lost touch with the reality that climbing safe often means climbing fast, especially in the mountains and on long routes. . While the new tests reported on belay anchors are interesting, they seem to miss statistical validity and the conditions used to carry out the tests seem very extreme and seldom occur in real climbing. What the book does not say is how many accidents have occurred in the real climbing world because of the type of failures that were observed in the testing lab. If that is a significant number, I am willing to change the way I rig my anchors, otherwise it is probably better if I stick to my older simpler method. The solutions proposed to make better (more equalized) anchors are so complicated that it is difficult to imagine how to rig them properly after you climbed 20 pitches with a power bar for lunch. Maybe the information disclosed in the book is useful in specific cases, when all your pieces are awful. I am not an expert, but I just wonder if trying to make belay anchors so complicated at all the time, even when your pieces are great, may cause more accidents due to mistakes and more epics due to wasted time. I would appreciate an expert opinion on this matter. Thanks.
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4: Concise, informative, and well researched
This is a well written and well researched book. The most significant aspect for me are the new tests on various anchors presented in the book. As a novice outdoor climber, I was most interested in rigging good top-rope anchors and was quite surpised to learn about the faults of the cordelette. Fortunately he introduces a better alternative called the equalette. He also dispels some myths about the sliding X and the fear many have of potential shock loading. The chapter where he describes the tests of various anchor setups is quite eye opening. It really begs for additional tests to be performed and has me thinking about what other false assumptions exist in this sport. A good reference and essential reading for any outdoor climber.
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5: Building Solid Climbing Anchors
This newly updated reference guide will teach you how to build safe and secure anchors while climbing. These techniques have been scientifically tested.
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